You can do it. Have a nice looking lawn that is--
I have found that maintaining the lawn (tall fescue, here in zone 7), is a lot about stimulus and response. Over the years I have followed many plans in September with a goal of creating an improved and more lasting, greener lawn. A most important suggestion, as a real starting point, is to become familiar with the information available from your local (county) cooperative extension office. In Virginia, the website is www.ext.vt.edu.
Soil testing for lawns is a good first step, and the extension service is ready to do this.
Other necessary tasks: Knowing your lawn's square footage; identifying sunny areas and shaded areas. Measuring the lawn and segmenting into sub areas is the method to do your square footage. This data will help you in applying seed and fertilizer, etc.
The assumption I am making, in my comments, is that one is managing one's own lawn and not utilizing an outside source, lawn service, etc.
Two other preliminary tasks: a)Identify volume of weeds vs. good grass; b)Understand when the actual seeding (and related tasks) should be done. The weeds need to be killed as a step in lawn renovation, certainly. With a mostly weeded area, one should factor a 2 to 4 week period prior to seeding for weed removal with an appropriate herbicide. Otherwise, you can uproot the individual weeds as you get into the dethatching process. Establishing a schedule, primarily, involves factoring weather conditions. In the past, it was suggested to get underway after Labor Day. Whereas, tall fescue grasses will not (normally) germinate when temperatures are above 87-degrees F., it is important to delay your lawn project until cooler temperatures are forecast. As well, you'll want to schedule the seeding when no major rain storms are expected.
Selecting Your Grass Seed & Fertilizer
Having a better looking lawn requires one to recognize and have knowledge of turf varieties. To have an exceptional lawn, you'll need to do research and identify the best fine-bladed tall fescues. The consequences of buying lesser qualities is to have an inferior lawn. The extension cooperative and individual garden centers will be able to help you identify preferred fine-bladed turf fescue. Yet, reading labels on bags of grass seed is mandatory. You do not need to buy seed with any weed content.
Then, it's time to shop for fertilizer--fall fertilizer. There is real science in the Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potash numbers. Check with the extension cooperative, if you are not knowledgeable. Some sources recommend a starter fertilizer, i.e. 18-24-10 (example), with a higher phosphorous content. Currently, this may not be necessary; you should be able to use a high nitrogen, high water insoluble nitrogen (WIN) percentage, longer lasting nitrogen feeding, and reduced salt content product.
Don't Forget the Grub Killer & Sod Webworm Killer
You will not want to get underway with seeding and fertilizing your new lawn before seeking to rid the lawn of grubs and sod webworms. A Bayer (brand) product today works well. Get the 24-Hour product only.
1 - 2 - 3
A good plan follows: (on average, accomplished over 2-3 days)
1-Cut the grass (incrementally) down to 1-1/2 inches. Bag the clippings.
2-De-thatch (Remove unwanted thatch); a necessary step about every other year. The thatch build up in the top layer above the soil line prevents seeds and fertilizer components from effectively acting.
In other words, your results will be less than optimum by not removing thatch. Depending on lawn size, you may do this with a push-pull rake or gas-operated machine. If you have never de-thatched a lawn, allow one good afternoon. Seek volunteers and helpers. The thatch is also to be bagged and discarded.
3-Core Aerate. Hire someone or rent a machine. Should be done in fall and in spring. Allows the soil to breathe and reduces compaction. Always a great thing to do.
4-Apply Fertilizer & Apply Seed. Seeding rate should be 4 to 5 pounds per 1000 SF of lawn size, if you are "over-seeding"..., not a complete renovation. For complete renovations, use 8 to 10 pounds. Measuring is important. Over-applying is not effective. After seeding and fertilizing, the lawn needs to be watered thoroughly.
5-Cover the Seed. Grasses (yes) are plants, and the seeds need a soil covering to germinate. The best soil covering is composted material. Based on the lawn size, you may need many bags. Ask for assistance at the garden center where the product is purchased. Again, water the lawn and the composted material, but provide a "light" sprinkling.
6-On the Following Day, Examine Areas of Exposed & Uncovered Seed. Recover these areas with composted material and lightly water/sprinkle. For areas on steep slopes, the composted material should also be covered by a layer of salt hay to prevent erosion.
7-Keep the Seed Moist - 3 Times a Day. Lightly water/mist each area very briefly. Schedule 3 mistings per day until the grass develops. Then, still continue to keep it watered. If rain falls, there is no need to water.
You can do it.
[Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, part-time gardener and horticulturist.]