Mid-August and less than a month before some serious yard activities...that's if you have a lawn with a tall fescue, cool season grass variety. If you do not know the quality of your grass, then you have more "home work".
Nonetheless, your local full-service garden center can help.
The purpose of this column is to suggest the need to conduct a lawn soil test. Doing a soil test now may allow you time to properly amend your soil before you start into the fall lawn renovation in September.
If you are not familiar with pH matters, as it relates to lawns, soils, shrubs, trees, plants, etc., log on to the Virginia Tech Cooperative Extension Service web site and explore.
The site is one you will want to frequently use. Virginia residents can have soil samples analyzed for a small fee. There is a procedure to follow, and information is linked here.
Should you wish to invest in quality testing products, consider the Kelway pH tester (see picture).
[I have no affiliation, by the way, with any of the companies, nor products.]
Also, the Cole Palmer Company has a major product line of scientific testing products, including the Oakton pHTestr 20.
Clearly, the purpose is to learn, as accurately as possible, the pH of several locations throughout your lawn/yard. Simply, identify by section: front, rear, left, right, etc.
Step #1 in having an above-average quality lawn: Establish a pH setting of 6.0 to 6.5.
If you have tested your lawn's pH and the reading is less than 6.0, you will want to add peletized lime to amend your soil. This is done, properly, not in conjunction with fertilization.
Some sources have suggested to regularly (once, annually) add 20-pounds of lime to your lawn to correct the lawn's pH. Yet, the best practice is to test first. Oversupplying your lawn with lime will create an extra problem. Additionally, higher pH lawns may have advanced fungus issues during hot and humid weather.
In summary, having a mostly accurate reading of your lawn's pH (throughout your property), and establishing the optimum of 6.0 to 6.5 will ensure that all the other applications (fall fertilization) you make will, chemically, work effectively.
(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, horticulurist and garden enthusiast, 2009.)
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