Northern Virginia Homes Guide & Blog

Summer Lawn Basics

What a summer!

Those with tall fescue, cool-season lawns (grasses) -perhaps, most of us- should be mindful of basic lawn maintenance during the summer heat and days of drought.

a)Cool season grasses were not made for summer heat.  The grass plant goes dormant or grows slowly under the stress of high heat and humidity. In fact, when temperatures are above 87-degrees F. new cool-season tall fescue grass seed will not germinate.  Thus, don't try to re-seed now.

Repeat. Do not try to patch your lawn with tall fescue seed until September when we should have cooler weather and average temperature ranges are less than 87-degrees F.  NOTE: You may, however, use sodded grasses now.  Keep the sod watered. 

The most basic understanding one should have of grasses and lawns (if you have a property with a lawn) is that the grass is a plant (an individual plant), and you must be knowledgeable about the variety of grass you have...cool season, tall fescue (brand or variety?) or warm season grass (bermuda, zoysia, etc.).

Unfortunately, there is not yet developed a grass variety for all seasons.  Thus, the bad with the good:
Our summer tall fescue lawns can look unhealthy in the hot summer; yet, they should look lush and green in spring and fall.  This is normal.

b)To improve the appearance of your tall fescue grass during summer heat, there are a few, simple steps: 
(1) Raise the cutting height of your mower - or, tell your lawn service to do this.  A height of 3 inches will help the root zone.  (2) Don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass blade when the grass is cut. (3) Cut with a sharp blade.  (4) Water deeply when you water to create a healthy, deeper root zone, not a shallow zone.  

Other Happenings Around the Garden, this Last Week of July:  
- You'll see ornamental grasses beginning to display their plumage.  
- More crape myrtle varieties are reaching their "peak" flowering display.  

Enjoy!
  
(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, part time horticulturist and Virginia gardener.)

Virginia Cooperative Extension- Soil Sample Information Update

When sending samples to Virginia Tech, the  current address is:

Virginia Tech Soil Testing Lab
145 Smyth Hall (0465)
Blacksburg, VA  24061

By preparing and sending any soil (lawn areas) samples in July, you'll ensure that you will know more accurately the lawn and soil condition prior to undertaking fall renovation in September.

On average, it may take three to four weeks to receive your completed analysis and report from the time it was sent to Blacksburg. 
(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, part time horticulturist and Virginia gardener.)

Mid-June Lawn Notes - Your Lawn May Want Some Food

If you have a lawn that needs management and you're the manager, cool season tall fescue lawns may be wanting more food.  The summer choices for lawn fertilizer are few:  organics.  Most widely known is the product from Milwaukee known as Milorganite, a 6-2-0 product with 5.25% water-insoluble nitrogen and 4% iron. 

Recently, the selection of organics included a brand of chicken waste fertilizers, brand name "Cockadoodle DOO".  This is a 4% nitrogen product, 4-1-2 and 3% water-insoluble nitrogen.  However, you will not probably find this in retail stores this year, due to company ownership litigation matters
(I am told).

Inorganic fertilizers are to be avoided during the summer, since they generally will burn the lawn with excessive nitrogen and unwanted "trace" materials.

So, keeping the lawn green this summer is the challenge.  

[NOTE: Chemical make up has changed to 5% nitrogen, not 6% (as advertised in the company's marketing).]  

[Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, part-time gardener and horticulturist.] 

If You Can Find Your Lawn (Got Snow?), It's Okay to Think Gardening-- We Made It to March!

  Okay, it isn't spring yet...

However, when you do find your lawn again, consider checking your soil's ph. You may be able to create a healthier lawn (and greener) by having a soil analysis prepared by your local state's Extension office.  There is a nominal charge, but the benefit is great.   

(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, horticulturist and garden enthusiast, 2010.)
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Dan's Mid-Week Garden Extra- Not All Perennials Need Pruning This Fall

  If you have Russian Sage(Perovskia artriplicifolia) in your garden and thought about trimming it back this fall, the "generally accepted" action plan is to save your trimming for early spring. 

Put it on your wish-list for next year, if your garden is without this easy-to -grow perennial.  In 1995 this plant was selected as Perennial Plant of the Year.  Neat. 

Some perennials, however, which should be pruned soon (this fall): Bearded Iris, Clematis, and Salvia.

Ornamental grasses, if you're wondering, should not be cut back now.  They significantly help to complete the winter landscape.  Trimming time for ornamental grasses is spring.

(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, horticulturist and garden enthusiast, 2009.)
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Brilliant Autumn Weather in Northern Virginia - and Colorful

The leaves are changing and falling...

Enjoy.

Lawn Renovation Tip - Outside Temperature is the Key

With lower temperatures in the area, this is a good week to begin one's lawn renovation.

Two considerations:  

1-For grass seed to germinate, the temperature "should" not be beyond 87-degrees (F).  
Observe the 10-day outlook in your planning.  If there is an unexpectedly lengthy "heat wave" forecast, you may want to wait until that passes.

2-Don't schedule your seeding with a major rainfall in the forecast.  No need to have your valuable investment washed away.  

(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, horticulurist and garden enthusiast, 2009.)

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Getting Ready for Lawn Renovation - Go Easy on the Lime - or Not at All

If you have a lawn of tall fescue grass (cool season variety) and may be preparing for some amount of renovation, you may want to review the "basics".

Basic Lawn Renovation Notes:

1-Lime(pelletized): Do not assume you need lime for your lawn each year.  Soil test first.  Objective: pH of 6.2-6.5.  If you apply lime when your lawn pH is in the mid 6s range, you'll have a problem later when the lime becomes activated in the soil some weeks thereafter. 

2-Fertilizer: Quality is everything.  Look for a high WIN number (water insoluble nitrogen) in the product description.  Also, avoid fertilizers with salt.  You do not necessarily need a "starter" fertilizer
(those with a higher phosphorous content).  

3-Do Not Apply Lime & Fertilizer in the Same Application.   Not compatible.  Reduced effectiveness in fertilization.

4-Grass Seed: Quality - Quality - Quality.  Don't skimp on quality.  Do your own research.  Look at the award winning varieties for tall fescue.  Certified seed is a must.  Look for minimum weed content.
Also, don't over-apply.  Too much is not better. 

5-De-Thatch First:   Remove thatch, if you did not de-thatch last fall or this past spring.  Cut the lawn to a heighth of 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches for de-thatching.

6-Core Aeration is a Must:  The soil condition is highly improved and "breathes''when a core aeration is performed (core of soil is pulled).  Do this after de-thatching.

See Dan's Post of September 15, 2008 for more helpful advice.

(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, horticulurist and garden enthusiast, 2009.)

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Get A Head Start on Your Lawn Renovation - Now Is the Time

Mid-August and less than a month before some serious yard activities...that's if you have a lawn with a tall fescue, cool season grass variety.  If you do not know the quality of your grass, then you have more "home work".
Nonetheless, your local full-service garden center can help. 

The purpose of this column is to suggest the need to conduct a lawn soil test.  Doing a soil test now may allow you time to properly amend your soil before you start into the fall lawn renovation in September. 

If you are not familiar with pH matters, as it relates to lawns, soils, shrubs, trees, plants, etc., log on to the Virginia Tech Cooperative Extension Service web site and explore.

The site is one you will want to frequently use.  Virginia residents can have soil samples analyzed for a small fee.  There is a procedure to follow, and information is linked here. 

Should you wish to invest in quality testing products, consider the Kelway pH tester (see picture).
[I have no affiliation, by the way, with any of the companies, nor products.] 

Also, the Cole Palmer Company has a major product line of scientific testing products, including the Oakton pHTestr 20.

Clearly, the purpose is to learn, as accurately as possible, the pH of several locations throughout your lawn/yard.  Simply, identify by section: front, rear, left, right, etc.    

Step #1 in having an above-average quality lawn:  Establish a pH setting of 6.0 to 6.5.

If you have tested your lawn's pH and the reading is less than 6.0, you will want to add peletized lime to amend your soil.  This is done, properly, not in conjunction with fertilization. 

Some sources have suggested to regularly (once, annually) add 20-pounds of lime to your lawn to correct the lawn's pH.  Yet, the best practice is to test first.  Oversupplying your lawn with lime will create an extra problem.  Additionally, higher pH lawns may have advanced fungus issues during hot and humid weather.  

In summary, having a mostly accurate reading of your lawn's pH (throughout your property), and establishing the optimum of 6.0 to 6.5 will ensure that all the other applications (fall fertilization) you make will, chemically, work effectively.  

(Article content solely that of Dan Bonner, horticulurist and garden enthusiast, 2009.)

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Crape Myrtles Are In Bloom Again - It's July!

Looking for the "perfect" small tree or shrub?
In the event your landscape does not already have a crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) or crape myrtles (you can't just have only one), then put this variety on your "buy" list today.

 

 

 

 

The choices you have are almost endless, although you may want to start your selection search with the National Arboretum website.

Assuming you have never focused on this fantastic tree/shrub, or have seen one and never taken time to explore it thoroughly, it is deciduous, loves sun, loves heat, loves water, has multiple color choices, and is  e-a-s-y  to grow.

Colors, in general, are: white, pink, red, lavender, and purple.  They flower on the current year's growth and the flowers are frilled like crepe paper (hence the name).  Crape myrtles are often referred to as the "Lilac of the South".  They are generally hardy to USDA Zone 5.

Depending on the variety, the number of flowering days, on average, can be from 70 to 120 days; flowers can begin to appear in early June.  Many are prized for a distinctive bark color, as well as their spectacular fall leaf color of orange gold to scarlet. 

Give this one a try!  (Pictured is Lagerstroemia indica, fauriei "Natchez").  Natchez (white) can grow to over 20-feet high, is very hardy, has high mildew resistance, had red orange fall color, and flowers approximately 110 days.  PH is 5.0 to 6.5.  A general fertilizer will promote growth, although the many crape myrtles seen blooming along our highways and byways receive little or none.

[Sources: Betty's Azalea Ranch, Plants of Colonial Williamsburg(The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation)]

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